The Southwest Coast Path

 I managed to find a lovely secluded spot to wild camp last night.  Unfortunately, I didn’t sleep particularly well. Firstly there was a creature flying around making a really strange noise. I lay awake trying to decide what it was but I couldn’t make my mind up if it was a phoenix or a pterodactyl!  The sound of the waves crashing ashore also kept me awake at times. I finally managed to go to sleep but was awoken at 5:30 by rain lashing on the tent. It only lasted 30 minutes or so, but enough to soak the tent and surrounding vegetation. I got up and broke camp at 7:15.  I began the remote walk over to Port Gaverne. As per usual, there were some beastly climbs to negotiate.  However, the early morning provided some stunning views looking towards Port Isaac.  I got to Port Gaverne at 10:30, where I had a peaceful cup of coffee in the Port Gaverne Hotel, before heading to do battle with the tourist hoardes at Port Isaac.  I knew it was going to be b...

 I had probably the best night sleep I’ve had in the last 6 months last night. I was out for the count at 10pm and didn’t get up until 06:45.  After breaking camp I rejoined the path and headed into Boscastle.  It was quite busy at 10am but I managed a coffee and cake at the National Trust Cafe. Thanks to my benefactors.  After that it was a nice walk along the headlands ( with the occasional valley thrown in) to Tintagel. There were a few steep climbs, but eventually I realised I must be getting close to Tintagel, because more and more people appeared on the path, not dressed for a daisy hiking!  Sure enough, the iconic bridge came into view ( as did the hoards)  Needless to say, I didn’t join them in visiting the castle, but I did have a quick coffee in the cafe ( very expensive). After that I walked over the tops towards Trebarwith Strand. With some stunning views .  After that, everything is a bit of a blur, because I bumped into Steve & Anna (...

 I’d like to say my day off from the path did me the world of good. Unfortunately, late yesterday afternoon I started to feel a bit off colour, feeling a  bit nauseous. I went to a pub to watch the football, but only had the one pint and didn’t even finish that. I couldn’t wait for the game to end, so I could go to bed! Anyone who knows me, will appreciate that just isn’t me!  Consequently, I had a terrible night’s sleep. Kept waking because of the nausea, but wasn’t actually ill. I left Bude this morning feeling like I had a hangover, so decided to try and sweat out whatever is wrong with me.  I had to walk through Bude Harbour to get to the path.  It was a nice gentle climb over to Widemouth Bay.  After Widemouth there were some more severe climbs but you got to see some swanky properties! After this there were a couple of brutal climbs at Dizzard and St Genny’s. I was really struggling but eventually found some energy ( well I found my jelly babies)...

As I explained yesterday, I have taken a day off from walking the coast path today. Instead, I’ve spent the day carrying out some personal admin, such as washing and drying all my clothes and re-stocking essentials that aren’t easily available.  It’s been a lovely sunny day here, but with a stiff cold breeze coming straight in off the sea! When I’m walking hard I don’t notice it, but sitting around this afternoon doing nothing was quite chilly!  I’m now sat at in a pub, that is filling rapidly because it’s showing the Champions League Final.   Fingers crossed my beloved Liverpool can make it ‘Big Ears’ number 7! Tomorrow it’s back on the path, hopefully to somewhere near Crackington Haven.   

 Well, the guide books did say today’s stage was probably the toughest of the whole path. Whilst until I finish, I can’t confirm if that’s true or not, what I can say was that it was a lung busting calf burning  sort of a day!  I stayed last night at YHA Elmscott. It was ok, but I wouldn’t rave about it, although I did have a dorm to myself.  I left just before 9am and quickly rejoined the coast path. Initially it was relatively easy going, cliff top walking. The weather was absolutely perfect. Wall to wall sunshine, but relatively cool with a refreshing breeze.  The bliss of cliff top walking was soon punctured by the first of the nine steep sided valleys I needed to traverse. Whether it was because it was the first or not, but I think it was the most brutal climb of the lot! I had to stop several times and reached the summit dripping in sweat and gasping for air! However, the advantage of today’s stage, was that you were rewarded for all that pain, by stunning...

 What a brilliant day today has been. My body may finally getting into the groove, because there were no hurty feet or achy shoulders/hips! Or maybe it was just because I had a decent night’s sleep in a proper bed and a cooked breakfast to send me on my way!  I left Clovelly at 9am and walked past Clovelly Court ( the home of the owners of Clovelly village). After about a couple of miles, there was a steep descent to Mouthmill where there are some old lime kilns and also Blackchurch Rock! Of course, what goes down, normally goes straight back up and it certainly did. It was a strenuous climb back up, shortly followed by another steep descent and climb to Windbury Head.  However, although they were steep climbs, my fitness must be improving, because I quite enjoyed them ( not being wet and slippy helps!) I then walked along a headland, through various fields until we reached Hartland Point, where this strange object was.  Some people say it looks like a giant penis, b...

Whilst I only walked 10 miles of the official path, I found today’s stage to be the toughest so far!  I awoke to the sound of rain hammering on the side of my tent. It had been forecast, so I was expecting it. I checked the weather forecast and it appeared that the rain was here to stay until mid afternoon. I therefore decided to crack on and get back on the path. I packed away a soggy tent, donned my waterproof trousers and jacket and off I set!  There was a strong wind, but luckily it was blowing me inland rather than over the cliffs!  Straight away the path reverted to norm and there were lots of hills to climb up and then straight back down. The main problem was that the rain had made the path very slippery, whether it be squelchy mud or wet rock! The rain stopped around 11am but I continued to get soaked from all the sodden vegetation.  In places, the path was barely six inches wide and you couldn’t see where you were putting your feet because of all the overhan...

 Despite it being the lumpiest bed I’ve ever slept in, I actually had a good night and woke up quite refreshed. As I paid for it, I was under contract to eat the full English breakfast. I tried to refuse, but you know how difficult it is to wriggle out of these T&C’s 😜 I set off at 9am and crossed the bridge into the West Side. I’d stayed in the east end last night, but didn’t hear a single dramatic drum roll or “leave it, he’s not wurff it” all evening!  I followed the coast path along the banks of the River Torridge, before we headed on a more circuitous route, due to access permissions I assume. However, I quite enjoyed this part of the walk, as it took me past some quite nice houses.  After a while, I reached the outskirts of Appledore. As I approached the Harland & Wolf Shipyard I was quite surprised at how many old boats were just left to rot in the river. In today’s more environmentally conscious times, perhaps it’s time to stop the practice.  I had a...