Day 15 Backways Cove to Polzeath

 I managed to find a lovely secluded spot to wild camp last night. 

Unfortunately, I didn’t sleep particularly well. Firstly there was a creature flying around making a really strange noise. I lay awake trying to decide what it was but I couldn’t make my mind up if it was a phoenix or a pterodactyl! 

The sound of the waves crashing ashore also kept me awake at times. I finally managed to go to sleep but was awoken at 5:30 by rain lashing on the tent. It only lasted 30 minutes or so, but enough to soak the tent and surrounding vegetation. I got up and broke camp at 7:15. 

I began the remote walk over to Port Gaverne. As per usual, there were some beastly climbs to negotiate. 


However, the early morning provided some stunning views looking towards Port Isaac. 


I got to Port Gaverne at 10:30, where I had a peaceful cup of coffee in the Port Gaverne Hotel, before heading to do battle with the tourist hoardes at Port Isaac. 

I knew it was going to be busy, but I was quite surprised at how many ‘Doc Martin’ fans there were. There was even several security men dotted about the village, which I thought was a bit over the top. I continued on the official coast path route out of the village, with throngs of people heading towards me. I assumed they must have just been on an official guided tour of Doc Martin’s house, which was coming up. The road went quiet, but there was another crowd of people outside the ‘house’. I continued on, not interested in hanging around near any crowds. As I approached the ‘house’ imagine my surprise when stood outside was Martin Clunes suited and booted in character as Doc Martin, just about to do a take! 

Needless to say I quickly continued on, before I got shouted at! 

After Port Isaac, there was one steep valley to negotiate, then a bit of cliff top walking with gentle undulations.

There was then another drop down into the hamlet of Port Quin. By that time I was getting tired, so I located a campsite inland on the outskirts of Polzeath and diverted off the path to there.

It’s two weeks now since I started this adventure. I’m still not totally in the ‘groove’ yet, because some days seem harder than others for no apparent reason. However, I am still loving it, no matter how tiring it is carrying a stupidly heavy pack on my back. I think another clear out of excess baggage is in order! 
I’ve walked roughly 170 miles so far. Those are ‘coast path’ miles, which are infinitely harder and more time consuming than ‘normal’ miles! 
 

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